“Mountain vines, a cave, and a dream: a return to tradition. We don’t want rules; we believe in our land, our grapes, and our senses.
We are Bodegas Frontonio.”
Bodegas Frontonio is the personal project of Fernando Mora MW, hailing from the Valdejalón appellation (technically an IGP, not a DO) of Aragón. These wines are considered some of the very best being made today east of Rioja and west of Catalunya. Best of all, prices are very fair for the high quality—and the quality begins in the vineyard: Mora and his team own fifty hectares of beautiful old bush vines in rocky clay-limestone selected for high altitude and north-facing exposition to emphasize freshness. And although this is Garnacha country (Aragón, in fact, is thought to be the birthplace of Garnacha), the whites are every bit as fascinating and delicious as the red.
The Bodegas Frontonio winery is a 200-year old house with an underground cave (3 floors) where gravity is used to process the grapes as gently as possible. The wines benefit from the naturally cool environment with the perfect level of humidity for aging. After extensive renovations, the cellar can now process 70,000kg of grapes, and age almost 50,000L, with a great variety of vessels including concrete, large oak foudres and demi-muids, as well as anfora. 2019 is the first vintage to be made entirely in the new winery, although they have been aging wines in the cave since 2017. 2019 also marks the first year that they have been able to vinify parcels separately since they now have the increased space to do so.
This micro-winery lets the grapes and the vineyard plots decide the outcome of the wine – there is no strict adherence to rules or parameters for any of the cuvees. Minimal intervention is the norm - technology is used where it is deemed necessary, but nature's path is always sought out first. 100% of the grapes reach the winery having been harvested by hand, resulting in the maximum quality of fruit. High-end wines are crushed by foot, which helps to prevent seeds being broken, a practice that is both entertaining and traditional. Wine is also aged in barrels, but with no rules, using new wood, different roasts, different times, different sizes; the wine is ultimately in charge.
Bodegas Frontonio Microcosmico Macabeo
Grapes: 100% Macabeo
Farming: Dry farming.
Vinification: Fermented in concrete vats.
Tasting Notes: Lemon and grapefruit notes with a mineral austerity and restrained smoky aromatics. Harmonious and concentrated palate with crisp acidity and an elegant, distinctive structure and medium body. Clean and dry with a complex, long finish.
Bodegas Frontonio Microcosmico Garnacha
Soil: Chalky clay
Vinification: Malolactic fermentation and aging for 10 months in concrete vats.
Tasting Notes: Pale ruby color, with raspberry and strawberry over mineral, white pepper and a hint of smoke. Dry, fresh acidity, moderate fine tannins and muscular texture. A medium length pure complex wine.